For Your Thanksgiving Consideration

I won't be cooking Thanksgiving dinner this year, but I will be dropping in at friends' celebrations with desserts and side dishes in hand. Whether you're hosting or potlucking, here are some favorite Thanksgiving recipes for your holiday recipe box.

1. Georgene's Fluffy Rolls. I make these every year and they're always a hit. Soft and slightly sweet, they're the perfect compliment to Thanksgiving dinner and are great for making sandwiches with the leftovers. I've also discovered that these freeze beautifully. Thaw at room temperature (inside the bag or container to collect condensation), cover with aluminum foil and reheat at 350 degrees F for about 8 minutes.

2. Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Bacon Cider Vinaigrette. This dish is a refreshing addition to the Thanksgiving table and will win over even the most devout Brussels sprouts haters.

3. Sweet Potato Gingerbread. This is perfect for breakfast, brunch or snacking, and because it keeps well, it's an ideal make-ahead recipe for the busy holiday season. Your company will think you bought it (or at least slaved in the kitchen for hours).

4. Bobby Flay's Pumpkin Bread Pudding. This is one of the worst photographs I've ever taken, and one of the best things I've ever made. It's a rather involved recipe, but if you make it you won't be sorry. Just don't take an awkward photo of it.

5. Mile High Apple Pie with Spicy Caramel Sauce. Apples. Perfect pie crust. Caramel sauce. Need I say more?

6. Flour's Super Pumpkiny Pumpkin Pie. This pumpkin pie is the real deal. I recommend you make your own pumpkin puree, but it's just as good with store bought.

Are you celebrating Thanksgiving? If so, what are your favorite dishes to eat and make?

About That Pumpkin Bread Pudding...

I've mentioned a time or a hundred that I made -- say it with me now -- Bobby Flay's Pumpkin Bread Pudding for Thanksgiving. (Twice, actually: once as directed, and again with the extra custard from Flour's Super Pumpkiny Pumpkin Pie.)

I've also told you a time or a hundred that you really ought to make it. Or at least the pumpkin bread, which is the. Best. Ever.

The end.

Kidding. Some simplifying tips:

• All of the components -- pumpkin bread, custard and sauces -- can be made a day or two in advance, and the pudding assembled the day you serve it. 
• Neither the Crème Anglaise nor the Spicy Caramel Apple Sauce are musts; the pudding is fantastic unadorned or topped with whipped or ice cream.
• That said, the Spicy Caramel Apple Sauce is easy to prepare and imparts a distinctive zing. 
• As with all recipes calling for pumpkin purée, make your own if you're able. It makes all the difference.
• Heck, make this with sweet potato or butternut squash purée if you'd like. (Just be sure to strain the water from the butternut squash.)
• Speaking of straining, make sure to strain the custard as directed. Even better, make a half recipe of the filling for Flour's Super Pumpkiny Pumpkin Pie -- which doesn't need to be cooked or strained -- and use it in place of the custard.

What are you waiting for? Make it already. Sheesh.

Super Pumpkiny Pumpkin Pie

I've been making a version of Flour Bakery + Cafe owner Joanne Chang's  banana bread for years, and thought it fitting that I inaugurate the recent addition of her new cookbook, Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery + Cafe, to my library by making her Super Pumkiny Pumpkin Pie for Thanksgiving. I have a soft spot for pastry chefs such as Chang who use adjectives like "pumpkiny," and write their recipes with instructions to "unfurl" and "pleat," which sound a lot like "twirl in your pleated skirt."

True to its name, this pie is super pumpkiny -- the result of cooking the pumpkin down to a paste so that it withstands the shocking quantities of milk and cream in the recipe. (This pie is not for the faint of heart.) True to form, I took some minor liberties with it. I used homemade pumpkin purée (something I always go to the trouble to make because I prefer the taste so); cooked it down for 7 minutes instead of 40 to 45;  and added 1/4 cup pure maple syrup and 1 tablespoon brandy.

A word to the wise: although Chang states that the recipes for both the filling and the Pate Brisee II (see below) yield enough for one 9-inch pie, I found that both made enough for at least two pies. No worries. I happened to be simultaneously making Bobby Flay's Pumpkin Bread Pudding, so I substituted the extra pie filling for the custard in his recipe, and froze the extra dough. If you're not in the same predicament (and what a predicament it was), halve the recipe, make two pies or visit Food Network for a version that appears to yield a single pie.

Happy baking, and be sure to unfurl and pleat as instructed.


Laird thinks I should trademark this, um, interesting pie angle.


Super Pumpkiny Pumpkin Pie
Makes (ahem) one 9-inch pie.

Pate Brisee II (recipe follows)
One 16 ounce can pumpkin purée (I made my own.)
2/3 cup packed light brown sugar (I used dark brown, as it's all I had.)
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
Pinch of ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk
2/3 cup evaporated milk
3 eggs
1 egg yolk
3/4 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

My additions:
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
1 tablespoon brandy

1. Remove the dough from the refrigerator. On a well-floured work surface, roll out the dough into a circle about 12 inches in diameter and 1/8 inch thick. Roll the dough circle around the pin and then unfurl it on top of a 9-inch aluminum pie pan or glass pie dish. Press the dough gently into the bottom and sides of the pan. Evenly pleat the overhanging dough with your fingers to create a decorative edge, or use scissors to trim the overhang, leaving a 1/4-inch lip (to allow for shrinkage in the oven). Refrigerate the pie shell for at least 30 minutes. (The pie shell can be tightly wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 1 day or frozen for up to 2 weeks. Bake directly from the refrigerator or freezer.)

2. Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350 degrees F.

3. Line pie shell with parchment paper, fill with pie weights, and blind bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the entire shell is light brown all the way through.

4. Meanwhile, scrape the pumpkin purée into a medium saucepan and stir in the brown sugar. Place over medium-low heat and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the pumpkin has reduced to a somewhat thick paste and darkened. Remove from the heat and whisk in the ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and salt. Then whisk in the sweetened condensed milk and evaporated milk.

5. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and egg yolk until blended. Slowly whisk in the cream and vanilla (and the maple syrup and brandy, if using), then gradually whisk in the pumpkin mixture and continue whisking until thoroughly mixed.

6. When the pie shell is ready, remove from the oven and leave the oven set at 350 degrees F. Remove the weights and parchment, and pour the pumpkin custard into the shell.

7. Bake for 55 to 60 minutes, or until the custard is just set. The edges of the custard will puff up a little and the center should still have a little wiggle in it. Let cool on a wire rack for at least 2 hours. Serve at room temperature or chilled. (I found this pie tasted best after being refrigerated for 24 hours.)

8. The pie can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Pâte Brisée II
Makes about 10 ounces dough, enough for (ahem) one 9-inch single-crust pie, 10-inch crostata or 9-inch quiche.

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon (1 stick plus 1 tablespoon) cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons cold milk

1. Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a handheld mixer), mix together the flour, sugar and salt. Scatter the butter over the top and mix on low speed for about 45 seconds, or until the flour is no longer bright white and holds together when you clump it and pecan-size lumps of butter are visible throughout.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and milk until blended. Add to the flour-butter mixture all at once. Mix on low speed for about 30 seconds, or until the dough barely comes together. It will look really shaggy and more like a mess than a dough.

3. Dump the dough out onto an unfloured work surface and gather it together into a tight mound. Using your palm and starting on one side of the mound, smear the dough bit by bit, starting at the top of the mound and then sliding your palm down the side and along the work surface (at Flour we call this "going down the mountain") until most of the butter chunks are smeared into the dough and the dough comes together. Do this once or twice on each part of the dough, moving through the mound until the whole mess has been smeared into a cohesive dough with streaks of butter.

4. Gather up the dough, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and press down to flatten into a disk about 1 inch thick. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours before using. The dough will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.

Thanksgiving Confessions: Part II

1. I never did master that tofu cheesecake, which went missing from Thanksgiving. (Obviously.)

2. I had to take my sourdough dressing out of the oven, transfer it to a bowl, add a missing ingredient and return it to the oven. Twice. The first time I forgot the roasted mushrooms; the second time, eggs.

3. We didn't have meatloaf as planned because Laird ate it before Thanksgiving.

4. Bobby Flay's Pumpkin Bread Pudding is to die. My Vanilla Bean Creme Anglaise curdled and I messed up the Spicy Caramel Apple Sauce, but it was still dessert perfection. If nothing else, make the pumpkin bread. I've been trying to perfect the recipe for years, and Bobby Flay nailed it. (Thank you, Bobby. I can get some sleep now.)

5. I've lost count of the knife cuts on my hands, and the gash on my right thumb is cramping my iPhone skills.

Thanksgiving Dishes

Have I mentioned Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday? We cooked and ate our little hearts out at our beach-themed table. Below are highlights; I'll post recipes and details in a few.*

*Hopefully before Christmas.

We noshed on goat cheese and triple cream Brie with fig jam, pecans and walnuts.

I made crackers with extra pie dough, a trick I learned from my mom. After cutting the scraps into cracker shapes, I brushed them with egg wash, pricked them with a fork and sprinkled them with coarse sea salt.

Later we feasted on roast chicken (Laird doesn't have a taste for turkey, which generally isn't available in South Africa), roasted Brussels sprouts with bacon cider vinaigrette, mashed potatoes, gravy, sourdough dressing, cranberry sauce, Georgene's Fluffy Rolls, and spinach salad with goat cheese, pomegranate seeds, walnuts and shallot-walnut vinaigrette.

We made a toast to our friends and family here and abroad, for whom we are so thankful.

I made three desserts: Flour Bakery's Super Pumpkiny Pumpkin Pie, Mile High Apple Pie and Bobby Flay's Pumpkin Bread Pudding. (Because I'm cutting back on sugar, remember?) Laird's Applejack brandy featured prominently in all three, which I love because a) my grandfather always served "Apple Jack Surprise" cocktails at holidays and celebrations; and b) Laird. (Don't ask me what an Apple Jack Surprise is. I have no idea.)

Speaking of Laird & Company:

Gemma looks a bit concerned about what The Headless Hound might be whispering in his ear, don't you think?

How was your Thanksgiving? Any kitchen disasters? I made a mess of my sourdough dressing. More about that later.

Thanksgiving Wishes

Here's hoping your Thanksgiving was filled with love, laughter and good food.

Clockwise from left: Great Aunt Flora, Great Uncle Ben, Great Aunt Lillian,
Papa, Mama, Mom, Great Granddad and Great Granny.

Thanksgiving Confessions: Part I

1. I refused to try pumpkin pie until I was in my twenties. It's now a favorite.

2. I'm not a fan of gravy.

3. Sourdough dressing is my favorite Thanksgiving dish, followed by mashed potatoes (sans gravy, of course). I could forgo everything else, even turkey and dessert.

4. Sweet potato and green bean casseroles weren't served at our family's Thanksgivings, but my grandmother (Mama) always made creamed pearl onions.

5. When I was 14 my mom and I tackled Thanksgiving without Mama's expert guidance, as she had recently passed. Everything was going swimmingly until we opened the oven to baste the turkey halfway through cooking. We had forgotten to turn on the oven.

What are your Thanksgiving confessions?

Georgene's Fluffy Rolls

Most Thanksgivings I make a batch of Georgene's Fluffy Rolls from one of my favorite cookbooks, Saveur Cooks Authentic American. (You can find the recipe online here.)

Essentially Parker House rolls, they're buttery and sweet; the sort of bread I don't eat but once or twice a year. Which is a good thing because I can't get enough of their pillowy goodness slathered in salty butter. And as I write this, it occurs to me that you could knead in dried fruit, orange zest and nutmeg for a Panettone-like holiday treat. Mmmmmm.

The rolls are quite easy to make by hand, but start them early as they require about 7 hours start to finish. If you're making them for lunch or afternoon supper, start them the night before -- make them up to the second rise, store them in the refrigerator overnight, and  finish them in the morning. My notes are in italics below.

Georgene's Fluffy Rolls

Adapted from Saveur Cooks Authentic American

Makes about 2 1/2 dozen

1 1/4 cups milk (I recommend whole milk but have used 1% to good result.)

1/4 cup vegetable shortening (I used butter this time.)

3/4 cup sugar (Honestly, this is a lot of sugar. I prefer to make them with 1/2 cup.)
1 teaspoon salt

1 7-gram packet active dry yeast (Or 2 1/4 teaspoons if using yeast from a jar.)

2 eggs, beaten

4 cups flour (Measured with the scoop and sweep method.)

3/4 cup butter, melted (I use only 1/4 cup because I brush the rolls with butter instead of dunking them in it.)

1. Combine milk, shortening, sugar and salt in a saucepan and cook, stirring, over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat; set aside to cool. (Make sure you let it cool to warm; adding hot liquid to yeast can kill it.)

2. Dissolve yeast in 1/4 cup lukewarm water in a large bowl; set aside until foamy, about 10 minutes. (This is called "proofing," and I dissolve 1/2 teaspoon sugar in the warm water to feed the yeast. You'll know within 5 minutes if your yeast is alive or not. When I made my latest batch, my newly-purchased packet of yeast was dead in the water. I started over with a different brand of jarred yeast from my refrigerator and was back in business in no time.)

3. Pour milk mixture into yeast. Stir in eggs and gradually add flour. Stir with a wooden spoon until dough gets stiff, then use your hands (dough will be sticky, so grease your hands with a little butter). Brush a small amount of butter on the inside of a large bowl and on one side of a sheet of waxed paper. Place dough in bowl, cover with buttered wax paper, and lay a damp dishcloth on top. Set aside to rise until doubled in bulk, at least 3 hours. (This dough looks like kinda grits: sticky and lumpy. But you won't need the buttered wax paper unless you're not using a large bowl, in which case the wax paper keeps the dough from sticking to the dish cloth.)

4. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until elastic, then roll out to 1/2 " thickness. Cut dough with a 3" biscuit cutter, dip each round into melted butter, and fold in half. Line up, round edges up, sides touching, on a cookie sheet. Cover as in step 3, and set aside to rise, at least 2 1/2 hours. (At this point you can wrap the baking dish tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. The next morning, remove them from the refrigerator, remove plastic wrap, cover with a dish towel and allow them to rise for about 3 hours.)

5. Heat oven to 350 degrees F. Bake until golden, about 15 to 20 minutes. Serve warm. (Rolls will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 2 days or in the freezer for up to a month. Warm in a 350 degree oven before serving.)