Super Pumpkiny Pumpkin Pie

I've been making a version of Flour Bakery + Cafe owner Joanne Chang's  banana bread for years, and thought it fitting that I inaugurate the recent addition of her new cookbook, Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery + Cafe, to my library by making her Super Pumkiny Pumpkin Pie for Thanksgiving. I have a soft spot for pastry chefs such as Chang who use adjectives like "pumpkiny," and write their recipes with instructions to "unfurl" and "pleat," which sound a lot like "twirl in your pleated skirt."

True to its name, this pie is super pumpkiny -- the result of cooking the pumpkin down to a paste so that it withstands the shocking quantities of milk and cream in the recipe. (This pie is not for the faint of heart.) True to form, I took some minor liberties with it. I used homemade pumpkin purée (something I always go to the trouble to make because I prefer the taste so); cooked it down for 7 minutes instead of 40 to 45;  and added 1/4 cup pure maple syrup and 1 tablespoon brandy.

A word to the wise: although Chang states that the recipes for both the filling and the Pate Brisee II (see below) yield enough for one 9-inch pie, I found that both made enough for at least two pies. No worries. I happened to be simultaneously making Bobby Flay's Pumpkin Bread Pudding, so I substituted the extra pie filling for the custard in his recipe, and froze the extra dough. If you're not in the same predicament (and what a predicament it was), halve the recipe, make two pies or visit Food Network for a version that appears to yield a single pie.

Happy baking, and be sure to unfurl and pleat as instructed.


Laird thinks I should trademark this, um, interesting pie angle.


Super Pumpkiny Pumpkin Pie
Makes (ahem) one 9-inch pie.

Pate Brisee II (recipe follows)
One 16 ounce can pumpkin purée (I made my own.)
2/3 cup packed light brown sugar (I used dark brown, as it's all I had.)
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
Pinch of ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk
2/3 cup evaporated milk
3 eggs
1 egg yolk
3/4 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

My additions:
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
1 tablespoon brandy

1. Remove the dough from the refrigerator. On a well-floured work surface, roll out the dough into a circle about 12 inches in diameter and 1/8 inch thick. Roll the dough circle around the pin and then unfurl it on top of a 9-inch aluminum pie pan or glass pie dish. Press the dough gently into the bottom and sides of the pan. Evenly pleat the overhanging dough with your fingers to create a decorative edge, or use scissors to trim the overhang, leaving a 1/4-inch lip (to allow for shrinkage in the oven). Refrigerate the pie shell for at least 30 minutes. (The pie shell can be tightly wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 1 day or frozen for up to 2 weeks. Bake directly from the refrigerator or freezer.)

2. Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350 degrees F.

3. Line pie shell with parchment paper, fill with pie weights, and blind bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the entire shell is light brown all the way through.

4. Meanwhile, scrape the pumpkin purée into a medium saucepan and stir in the brown sugar. Place over medium-low heat and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the pumpkin has reduced to a somewhat thick paste and darkened. Remove from the heat and whisk in the ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and salt. Then whisk in the sweetened condensed milk and evaporated milk.

5. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and egg yolk until blended. Slowly whisk in the cream and vanilla (and the maple syrup and brandy, if using), then gradually whisk in the pumpkin mixture and continue whisking until thoroughly mixed.

6. When the pie shell is ready, remove from the oven and leave the oven set at 350 degrees F. Remove the weights and parchment, and pour the pumpkin custard into the shell.

7. Bake for 55 to 60 minutes, or until the custard is just set. The edges of the custard will puff up a little and the center should still have a little wiggle in it. Let cool on a wire rack for at least 2 hours. Serve at room temperature or chilled. (I found this pie tasted best after being refrigerated for 24 hours.)

8. The pie can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Pâte Brisée II
Makes about 10 ounces dough, enough for (ahem) one 9-inch single-crust pie, 10-inch crostata or 9-inch quiche.

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon (1 stick plus 1 tablespoon) cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons cold milk

1. Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a handheld mixer), mix together the flour, sugar and salt. Scatter the butter over the top and mix on low speed for about 45 seconds, or until the flour is no longer bright white and holds together when you clump it and pecan-size lumps of butter are visible throughout.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and milk until blended. Add to the flour-butter mixture all at once. Mix on low speed for about 30 seconds, or until the dough barely comes together. It will look really shaggy and more like a mess than a dough.

3. Dump the dough out onto an unfloured work surface and gather it together into a tight mound. Using your palm and starting on one side of the mound, smear the dough bit by bit, starting at the top of the mound and then sliding your palm down the side and along the work surface (at Flour we call this "going down the mountain") until most of the butter chunks are smeared into the dough and the dough comes together. Do this once or twice on each part of the dough, moving through the mound until the whole mess has been smeared into a cohesive dough with streaks of butter.

4. Gather up the dough, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and press down to flatten into a disk about 1 inch thick. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours before using. The dough will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.

Mile High Apple Pie with Spicy Caramel Sauce

I eat apples year round -- they've been a favorite (and daily) snack since I was a child -- but I especially look forward to apple season each year. I'm smitten with fresh-from-the-orchard heirloom varieties brimming with crispy crunch and bright flavor. I'm particularly fond of Sierra Beauties, which I discovered in 1994 and, quite by accident, made into the best pie ever. (Sorry to toot my own horn, but...1994, guys! Sierra Beauties are that good.)

Sadly, this year apple season pretty much passed me by. But I am enjoying the last few late-harvest organic Arkansas Black apples from Whole Foods, and I did manage to turn a pile of humble Granny Smiths into a Mile High Apple Pie for Thanksgiving.

Spicy and comforting, this pie even has a sauce. I highly recommend you make it for your next gathering or random craving. I know it looks like a lot of steps, but I'm nothing if not overly-descriptive. Making it is a simple, satisfying endeavor.

Mile High Apple Pie with Spicy Caramel Sauce

Makes one 8- or 9-inch pie

Perfect dough for double-crust pie:

2/3 cup cold water

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, measured with the scoop and sweep method

3/4 cup (1-1/2 sticks or 12 tablespoons) unsalted butter, very cold, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1/2 cup (4 tablespoons) cream cheese, very cold, cut into 1-inch pieces

5 tablespoons vegetable shortening, very cold

Filling:

9 medium Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and cut into eighths

Juice of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract (or 1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste)

1 tablespoon apple brandy or liquor of choice (optional)

3/4 cup brown sugar, tightly packed

1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon ground allspice

Pinch ground cloves
1/4 cup heavy cream
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 cup half and half
Granulated or sanding sugar

Egg wash:

1 large egg yolk

2 tablespoons water, milk, cream or half and half (don't say I don't give you choices)

1. Make the pie dough:
Dough can be made in a large bowl with a pastry cutter, in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a food processor.
- Dissolve salt in water and keep it very cold. (I make the saltwater in a glass measuring cup and set it in the freezer.)
- Cut butter into flour just until large pea-sized lumps remain.
- Add cream cheese and vegetable shortening and gently stir, mix or pulse until the cheese and shortening are just incorporated. Big shaggy lumps should remain.
- Add water in a slow, steady stream -- all the while gently stirring, mixing or pulsing -- until dough just comes together.
- Transfer dough to a floured surface, knead gently a few times and cut in half. Shape into balls, flatten into discs about 1 inch thick, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

2. Blind bake the bottom crust:
- Heat oven to 350 degrees F.
- Remove one pie dough disc from refrigerator and place it on a floured surface. Roll to a 10-inch circle and place it in an 8- or 9-inch pie dish with deep sides (at least 1-1/2 inches).
- Gently press dough into the corners and sides of dish and trim edges to no more than 1/4 inch from the top edge.  (Dough will shrink as it bakes.) Prick all over with a fork, line with parchment, fill with beans or pie weights, and "blind bake" for about 30 minutes or until evenly browned.
Note: I use the dough scraps to make decorative shapes for the top crust. Gather the scraps into a ball, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, macerate the filling:
- In the biggest bowl you can find, toss the apples with lemon, vanilla, brandy, sugar, flour, salt and spices. Let sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. 

4. Roll out the top crust:
- Remove the second dough disc (not the ball of scraps) from the refrigerator and roll out as instructed above, except this time make an 11-inch round.
- Cut a 1-1/2 inch circle (or other shape if you have small cookie or pie cutters) from the middle.

5. Make egg wash:
- In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolk with the water, milk, half and half or cream. 

6. Assemble pie:
- Add cream to the macerated apples, toss to combine, and transfer apples with half their juices to the bottom crust, piling high in the middle.
- Dot apples with the 4 tablespoons cold butter pieces.
- Center and lay top crust over apples, gently pressing it against them to avoid big air pockets.
- Use a pastry brush to apply egg wash to edges of bottom crust (I know this seems weird because the bottom crust is baked; work with me here), then press the top crust firmly against the bottom crust to form a seal. (The egg wash glues the crusts together.)
- Trim excess dough from around the edges and place pie in the refrigerator while you cut decorative shapes from the dough scraps.

7. Decorate and bake:
- On a floured surface, roll the ball(s) of scraps into a rectangle and cut decorative shapes such as leaves, apples or whatever strikes your fancy.
- Brush both sides of your decorative shapes with egg wash, remove pie from the refrigerator, and glue the pieces to the edges of the crust (they look quite pretty if they slightly overlap).
- Brush the surface of the top crust with egg wash, sprinkle with sugar and, if you have extra decorative pieces, glue them randomly or in a pattern on the surface of the crust.
- Prick crust with a fork if you like, for extra ventilation.
- Bake for about 45 minutes to an hour, or until the crust is nicely browned and the apples are soft and bubbling. (Tent with foil if the crust browns too quickly.)
- Remove from oven to cool and set. Serve warm, with ice cream and caramel sauce.

8. Make the caramel sauce:
- Bring reserved juices from macerating the apples to a simmer over medium-low heat.
- Cook, stirring constantly, until thickened, 1-2 minutes.
- Slowly stir in the half and half and cook for another minute or two. Serve warm, for drizzling over pie.

Summer Cherry Pie

As evidenced by my recent posts, I went on a baking bender this weekend. I blame it mostly on the weather, which was cold, dreary and drizzly. When it's gloomy out, nothing makes me feel more cozy than a good session with my KitchenAid, especially when Tour de France and World Cup are on TV. I also happened to have three pounds of gorgeous organic cherries from the Farmers Market, and some new toys: a cherry pitter and a heart-shaped pocket pie mold that I got on sale for $4.99.

The cherry pitter is brilliant. It's one of those gadgets that seems unnecessary and indulgent until you have one, and then you wonder how you lived without it for so long. It helped me to turn a colander of cherries into pie filling in minutes.

The pocket pie mold, however, was a bust. (I returned it to the store yesterday.) It's a cutter/mold combo: it cuts heart shapes out of your crust, which you place in the mold, fill, and crimp shut. Williams-Sonoma makes it look easy breezy beautiful.

Problem is, the crust hearts should be at least 1/2-inch larger than the mold, which is concave. So when you add the fillilng, the crusts sink into the mold and don't crimp together. Sure, I could have cut larger hearts using the mold as a guide, but doesn't that defeat the purpose of the gadget? And the pie-crust-to-filling ratio was completely off. I could barely fit two tablespoons of filling into each pie, and a cherry would inevitably pop through the little heart cutout like an angry, bloodied olive.

 

So I did the only reasonable thing: I ditched the useless gadget and baked a full-size pie. Below is the recipe for the filling, adapted from here and there, but mostly from Cook's Illustrated's The Perfect Recipe. 

 

Summer Cherry Pie
Makes one 9-inch double-crust pie


3 pounds (about 6 cups) fresh cherries, stemmed, pitted and halved
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons tapioca starch (also known as tapioca flour)
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon pure almond extract
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
zest of 1 lemon
juice of 1/2 lemon
Two 14-inch round pie crusts
1 large egg whisked with 1 tablespoon milk or water (optional)
Sugar for sanding (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees F and position a rack in the middle. Line a pie plate with one of the crusts, fitting it to the corners and sides of the plate without stretching. (You will want a 1-inch overhang when trimmed.)

2. In a large bowl, combine the cherries, sugar, salt, starch, and flavorings, toss to combine thoroughly, and pour into the prepared pie plate.

3. Carefully top with the remaining pie crust, pressing the top and bottom crusts together. Using kitchen shears or a knife, trim the crusts to hang 1 inch beyond the rim of the pie plate. Tuck into the rim of the pie plate and crimp with a fork or your fingers to seal. Brush with the egg wash, sprinkle with sugar, and cut vents to allow the steam to escape. (You could get creative with the top crust, such as making a lattice or cutting shapes with mini-cookie cutters. I cut stars in mine, and glued them around the cutouts with the egg wash.)

4. Place the prepared pie in the freezer for 10 minutes (or in the refrigerator for 20 minutes) to firm up the crust. (This will ensure a flaky result.)

5. Remove the pie from the freezer or refrigerator, place on a baking sheet, and bake on the center rack of the oven at 425 degrees F for about 25 minutes, or until crust is lightly brown. Reduce heat to 400 degrees F and bake for another 20 to 30 minutes, or until the filling is bubbling and the crust is browned and cooked through. (Rotate the pie if it's browning unevenly, and tent with foil if it's over-browning at the edges.) Remove to a wire rack to cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.