Gluten-Free, Vegan Melktert (Milk Tart)

Remember how I told you I'd share the results of my first attempt at making a gluten-free, vegan version of our beloved melktert, provided it wasn't a disaster?

Well, it wasn't a disaster! It needs some further refinement, but it's not bad.

Actually, the more I think about it, the more pleased I am with the results. It's one thing to adapt a recipe to be gluten-free or vegan, and another thing entirely to tackle both at the same time. My two biggest fears -- that the custard wouldn't set and the crust would shatter and crumble -- didn't happen. A small victory in my gluten- (and mostly dairy-) free baking journey.

The crust -- made with King Arthur All-Purpose Gluten-Free Flour, Earth Balance Buttery Sticks, and a bit of sugar -- held together, but it's fragile for sure. The brown rice in the flour contributed a nice crunch, but there was a slight bitter aftertaste. There's no bean flour in the King Arthur blend, so I think the odd flavor might be from the Earth Balance. Earth Balance is also quite watery, so next time I'll use vegetable shortening.

As for the custard filling, to be honest it tastes more like coconut tapioca pudding than a milky cinnamon custard, but it's a start. I happen to love coconut tapioca pudding -- and spooned some of the filling, still warm from the saucepan, into a small bowl to enjoy with a sprinkle of cinnamon -- but the tapioca probably isn't necessary. I added it at the last minute out of fear that the custard wouldn't set without eggs (which you certainly don't have to omit if you're avoiding dairy but aren't vegan).

Lest I ramble on any more than I already have, my recipe and notes are after the photo...

Gluten-Free, Vegan Melktert (Milk Tart)

Serves 8

Unlike traditional melktert made with egg, in this version the custard isn't baked after being poured into the pre-baked crust.

For the crust:

1 1/4 cups gluten-free flour (I used a packaged blend as noted above, but plan to experiment with my own blends. I think teff and almond flours would contribute to a nice crust, and ground flax would help hold the dough together.)

1/2 cup vegetable shortening or 1 stick Earth Balance Buttery Sticks

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

Ice water (If needed; Earth Balance is so moist, I didn't need to add water.)

Additional gluten-free flour for rolling the dough

Vegetable cooking spray

1. In the bowl of a food processor (or in a medium bowl using a pastry cutter), combine the flour, shortening or Earth Balance, sugar and salt. Pulse until the mixture comes together in large clumps and holds together when you press it between your fingers. Add ice water, a tablespoon at a time, if needed.

2. Turn the dough out onto a sheet of plastic wrap or lightly greased parchment paper, cover with another sheet of plastic wrap or paper, and press it together to form a disc. Refrigerate, tightly wrapped, for at least an hour.

3. Heat oven to 400 degrees F. Unwrap the dough and place it on a floured work surface. Roll it out into a circle to fit an 8- or 9-inch pie or tart pan, dusting the rolling pin and dough with additional flour as needed. Transfer the dough to the pie or tart pan and press it evenly into the bottom, edges and sides. (My dough tended to crack and split at the edges and when I rolled it and when I transferred it to the tart pan, but you can press the pieces back together much more easily than when working with dough containing gluten.)

4. Bake the tart shell until golden brown, about 20 minutes, turning it as needed to ensure even browning if your oven has hot spots like mine. (You won't need to use pie weights, nor prick the dough with a fork to prevent it from bubbling up. It also doesn't shrink like many doughs that contain gluten.)

5. When done, remove the tart shell from the oven to a rack to cool while you make the custard filling.

For the custard:

3 cups coconut milk (I used "full fat," not lite, coconut milk, figuring the fat would make the custard more creamy and thick.)

3 sticks cinnamon, broken into pieces

1 whole nutmeg

1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon cornstarch

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup granulated tapioca (optional)

1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste or extract

Ground cinnamon for sprinkling over finished tart

1. In a heavy bottomed medium saucepan set over medium heat, bring 2 1/2 cups of the coconut milk, the cinnamon sticks and nutmeg almost to a boil. Remove from heat to cool for about 10-15 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, whisk the cornstarch, sugar, salt and tapioca (if using) in a medium bowl. Add the remaining 1/2 cup coconut milk and whisk or stir until thoroughly combined. Set aside.

3. Remove the cinnamon sticks and nutmeg from the warmed coconut milk, set the saucepan over medium low heat, and slowly whisk in the cornstarch mixture. Cook, stirring constantly (and scraping the sides, corners and bottom of saucepan to prevent clumping), until the mixture is thickened, about 10-15 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in the vanilla, and set aside to cool for about 30 minutes, until warm (you can speed this process by transferring the custard to a clean bowl and stirring it at regular intervals).

Assembly:

Pour the warm custard into the prepared tart shell, sprinkle with ground cinnamon to taste, and refrigerate, uncovered, until set. Slice carefully and serve.

Dairy- and Gluten-Free Eggnog "Cheesecake" Squares

In light of yesterday's post about the evils of flour and sugar -- the hilarity of which I hope wasn't lost on you -- today's post about Eggnog "Cheesecake" Squares is nothing if not ironic. Yes, folks, it's another dessert recipe. And it's probably the most processed thing I've ever made, thanks to the use of gluten-free graham crackers and dairy-free cream "cheese". (The latter tastes and smells so chemical, I nearly gagged. Thankfully this goes away upon baking.)

But 'tis the season for giving -- and indulging -- so this post is a holiday gift to some of my favorite bloggers-slash-readers who avoid gluten and/or dairy. Lindsay, Katie and Stew, this one's for you. (And your friends and family, who won't have a clue these treats are dairy- and gluten-free.) Enjoy!

Note: These squares aren't vegan because they rely on eggs -- particularly yolks -- as a binder, but I have faith Katie can veganize them. Or Angela, who could add some of her homemade Vegan Nog. Yum.)




Eggnog "Cheesecake" Squares (Dairy- and Gluten-Free)
Makes 16 to 24 squares, depending on cut size
Adapted from Elizabeth's Eggnog Cheesecake Bars at MarthaStewart.com*

8 ounces gluten-free graham style crackers (I used Kinnikinnick Foods S'moreables), crushed or processed into fine crumbs
4 tablespoons Earth Balance Buttery Spread, melted
3 tablespoons plus 3/4 cup sugar
1 lb (two 8-oz tubs) non-dairy cream cheese substitute (I used one tub of Tofutti Better Than Cream Cheese and one tub of Follow Your Heart Cream Cheese Alternative. I have no idea why.)
2 large whole eggs
1 large egg yolk
1 tablespoon brandy (optional)
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract or vanilla bean paste (I used paste)
1 tablespoon certified gluten-free oat flour*
1 teaspoon cornstarch*
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
Pinch salt
Vegetable oil cooking spray

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees F and coat a 9-inch square cake pan* with cooking spray. In a medium bowl, combine the graham cracker crumbs, melted Earth Balance and 3 tablespoons sugar. Press into bottom of pan and bake for 12 minutes, rotating pan halfway through. Set on wire rack to cool.

2. Meanwhile, in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (you could easily mix this by hand), beat the cream cheese substitute on medium speed with the eggs, egg yolk, brandy, maple syrup, vanilla, 3/4 cup sugar, oat flour, cornstarch, nutmeg and salt until thoroughly combined and smooth. Pour filling over crust.

3. Bake on middle oven rack until filling is set, rotating pan halfway through, about 40 to 45 minutes. (This took exactly 40 minutes for me, and the filling puffed up like a souffle. However it deflated and became perfectly flat and smooth as it cooled.) Cool on a wire rack for about an hour, then cover and chill for at least 3 hours or up to 1 day.

4. Cut into bars and serve.

*Notes:

- You may remember my November announcement that I wanted to recreate my mom's tofu cheesecake for Thanksgiving, and that it was a flop which went missing from my holiday table. Then I bought the Martha Stewart Holiday Cookies magazine, fell in love with the Eggnog Cheesecake Bars (which have made the rounds on some blogs), and thought maaaaaybe I could take a traditional cheesecake recipe and make it dairy- and gluten-free. Bingo! These babies are outstanding and taste exactly like traditional cheesecake.

- I wasn't mad about the idea of using a 9" square cake pan because I could foresee disaster when trying to cut and remove the squares from the pan. I was right -- I mangled about half the squares. So I would recommend using a springform or tart pan with removable sides.

- If you don't have or don't like oat flour, omit it and increase the cornstarch to 1 1/2 teaspoons.

- I bought Silk Nog with the intention of using it in place of the 3/4 cup of dairy eggnog in the Martha Stewart recipe, but when I poured it from the carton I realized it was too watery. I tried cooking it down to the thickness of traditional eggnog, but to no avail. So I ditched it. To compensate, I doubled the nutmeg and added 1 tablespoon maple syrup.

- The Martha Stewart recipe calls for baking the pan of cheesecake squares in a water bath, but I didn't think it was necessary. I was right.

P.S. I know, I know -- more wretched photos. It's still raining, which means no light or outdoor shoots. Hastily "styling" and photographing these babies before rushing out the door to work doesn't help either. Especially when a restless puppy is gnawing on my ankles.