Wednesday, April 20, 2011

(Not So) Recent Travels, Part IV: Cape Winelands


I began drafting this post on February 24, which was in itself neglectful, and then I let it go missing until now. To be honest, I've been reluctant to publish this because the photos are so wretched and my writing, so uninspired. Truly, this post does not begin to do justice to the beauty of the Cape Winelands and the wonderful times we had there with our family.

Now that it's been ages since we returned from South Africa, let's get back to talking about the trip. Specifically, the Cape Winelands.

South Africa's largest wine producing region, the Cape Winelands boasts six distinct areas, each with its own wine route and renowned restaurants. Among the areas I've visited, Stellenbosch (where my husband went to University) and Franschhoek are the most famous, and Constantia is the oldest and closest to Cape Town (it's also where much of my husband's family is from and still lives).

During this trip we were privileged to eat at arguably the best restaurants in each of those three areas. First up was Bread & Wine at Moreson Wine Estate in Franschhoek. (Tip: Franschhoek has more award-winning restaurants than any place in South Africa. If you're able to travel to South Africa and are into food, go there. You won't be disappointed.) Bread & Wine was specially selected by my in-laws because of Miss Molly, the Moreson Weimaraner.



We went on quite a mission to find Miss Molly, but she was nowhere to be found. We did, however, find some Miss Molly wine. Several of the wines are named for "Weimaranerisms" familiar to anyone who has shared a home with a Weim: In My Bed, Hoity Toity and Kitchen Thief.

In My Bed and Hoity Toity

Kitchen Thief
There's also Bubbly for celebrating your good sense to live with a Weimaraner.




Given that it was 45 degrees C (113 degrees F) in the shade that day, Molly was most likely keeping cool in a wine cellar or at the  pool. (Weimaraners are nothing if not smart.)

To give you an idea of what 113 in the shade looks like, this is what happened to our butter in the blink of an eye:


And this is what your photos look  like when you're equipped with a point and shoot (and no bounce or diffuser) and are dining in the shade of a giant tree.

Pork Belly with Avocado Cream

Dessert. Always.

No matter. The food was lovely and the company, even better.

Speaking of lovely, we had the privilege of lunching with my mother-in-law and her husband at Terroir, the award-winning restaurant on the Kleine Zalze wine estate in Stellenbosch. We dined on the restaurant's patio where we enjoyed views of the estate's golf course, gardens and vineyards and, of course, impeccable food and wine. The menu changes weekly (if not daily) based on what's in season and locally available.


Don't be fooled by the prices; they're in Rand. Terroir is quite affordable in U.S. Dollars.

Escalopes of Salmon with Sesame and Soya Dressing

Tomato and Avocado Tian

Grilled Fresh Line Fish with Herb Crust, Asparagus and Truffle Vinaigrette. The herb crust was brilliant. Rather than being crusted with herbs, the fish was topped with an herb cracker of sorts.

Braised Belly of Pork with Truffle Sauce and Crackling

We of course saved (or found, rather) room for dessert.


Tellingly, I snapped this photo before I photographed the lunch menu board.

This Hazelnut and Milk Chocolate Bar with Nougatine Ice Cream was reminiscent of Breanne Varela's Snickers Bar at Tavern.

Have you noticed that lunch is kind of a big deal in South Africa? Unlike Americans, who mark special occasions with suppers and dinners, South Africans celebrate holidays and special occasions over lunch. (The practice is quite genius in that it leaves you with a half day to digest and work off your meal, as opposed to staggering to the sofa or bed in a food coma.)

So, in celebration of my mother-in-law's birthday, we enjoyed a glorious lunch at Constantia Uitsig. The restaurant occupies an original Cape Dutch homestead and is absolutely breathtaking. Also breathtaking were the food and service. The leisurely meal was flawlessly timed, prepared and served -- without the slightest hint of pretension (save for the decidedly ostentatious diners opposite us, but that's another story).

Caesar Salad
Smoked Tuna Carpaccio with Avocado
Chalmar Beef Fillet
Special Birthday Malva Pudding

Oh how I miss Cape Town: its beauty, culture, food, and, most of all, our wonderful family. {sniffle}